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Frieze New York 2025
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In pictures: following the thread at Frieze New York

Textile-based art is abundant at the fair this year, from pieces approximating the forms of paintings but made of found fabrics to hand-woven, intricately beaded works and even a wearable, many-layered cape

Benjamin Sutton and Elena Goukassian
9 May 2025
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Steven Molina Contreras

Steven Molina Contreras

Claudia Alarcón

A propósito de encontrarse (About meeting, 2024)

Proyectos Ultravioleta

The Guatemalan gallery’s entire stand is a textile installation—an embroidery by Edgar Calel—that contains several pieces, including this magnetic knitted crochet work by the Indigenous artist Claudia Alarcón, priced between $30,000 and $50,000. Alarcón often collaborates with the Silät collective, “a group of around 100 Indigenous women in Argentina”, says the gallerist Sofia Freeman.

Steven Molina Contreras

Sonia Gomes

Untitled (Torção series) (2013)

Mendes Wood DM

A representative example of Sonia Gomes’s large-scale wrapped-wire sculptures, this piece from her Torção series—Portuguese for “twist”—consists of fabrics given to the Brazilian artist by friends and family, lovingly wrapped and stitched around a wire structure. The work is on reserve for a private collector.

Steven Molina Contreras

Carolina Caycedo

Nipple (Salute to Zilia Sánchez) (2022)

Instituto de Visión

The Colombian, Los Angeles-based artist Carolina Caycedo made this piece in tribute to the late Cuban abstractionist Zilia Sánchez (1926-2024). Priced at $35,000, it incorporates handmade nets knitted by women in Colombia’s river-fishing communities. “The nets have to be woven in a circle, so it creates this community of women where news and traditions can be shared,” says Beatriz López, Instituto de Visión’s director and co-founder.

Steven Molina Contreras

Citra Sasmita

Vortex in the Land of Liberation (2025)

Yeo Workshop

The Singapore-based gallery is showing works by the Balinese artist Citra Sasmita. The smaller works on the stand (priced from $20,000 to $25,000) are made of Kamasan canvas, a material traditionally used to wrap figures in Hindu shrines. Vortex in the Land of Liberation (2025, selling for $38,000) incorporates hand-embellished cowhide, each bead “handsewn by the artist as an art of protest against the increasing industrialisation of these practices”, says a gallery spokesperson.

Steven Molina Contreras

Kyungah Ham

Phantom and A Map / poetry 01WBXS01V2 (2019-24)

Kukje Gallery

The South Korean artist creates her works through a unique and complicated process involving sending sketches to anonymous female embroidery artists in North Korea, who create fragments of her pieces and send them back through Chinese middlemen. Kyungah Ham then stitches these together into a whole. This work is available for $70,000.

Steven Molina Contreras

Lee ShinJa

Destination I (1987)

Tina Kim Gallery

This piece is actually a wearable cape. It is just one of several works by the nonagenarian artist Lee ShinJa on view at Tina Kim Gallery’s stand. Lee trained as a painter, and it shows in the compositions of her fibre-based pieces. Destination I sold prior to the fair’s opening—hopefully, its new owner tries it on at least once.

Steven Molina Contreras

Grayson Perry

Fascist Swing (2024)

Victoria Miro

Grayson Perry made the two large tapestries at Victoria Miro’s stand in response to Baroque and Rococo works in the Wallace Collection in London. Fascist Swing is a take on Jean-Honoré Fragonard’s The Swing (around 1767-68), highlighting the long history of artwashing as philanthropy. The tapestries are still available for £75,000 each.

Steven Molina Contreras

Małgorzata Mirga-Tas

Terne / The Young Ones (2023)

Frith Street Gallery

The Roma Polish artist Małgorzata Mirga-Tas crafted this group portrait out of fabric sourced from her own home, her family and her community. “She’s an activist who is revisiting how we talk about Roma people, their history, their persecution during the Holocaust,” says Elly Ketsea, a director at the gallery. The work is on offer in the range of $50,000 to $100,000.

Frieze New York 2025In PicturesNew York
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