Today I was up extra early, ready to take on the day. I nipped out for a bite and was intrigued by the abundance of delivery boats flowing through the canal, which led me to think about the economic impact the Biennale must have on this city. Wrapped in a spring jacket, I was off to my first stop of the morning: a preview of Berggreun Arts and Culture, a new permanent exhibition space in the Palazzo Diedo. The sound of buzzing saws echoed throughout the building—part of the massive effort underway to prepare for tomorrow's opening. As someone from the company directed me from floor to floor, I was fascinated by the sheer scale of this grand 18th-century structure and the ambitious installations within. Highlights include the largest polaroid camera in the world, various ceiling murals by contemporary artists, a Hiroshi Sugimoto room and an Urs Fischer installation.
The grand Palazzo Diedo has a Hiroshi Sugimoto room
Now that I am a seasoned Venice commuter, without any hesitation I hopped on a boat headed towards the Giardini to attend a Venetian lunch onboard the Art Explora, the largest sailing catamaran in the world. A representative explained that the boat is an educational tool sailing throughout the Mediterranean, first in Malta, now Venice, and then onwards to Marseille, Morocco, and Malaga. Art Explora is partnered with institutions such as the Louvre and, at most ports that it docks in, works with a local curator to put on art shows, talks, and performances.
Highlights of the past couple of days included lunch on board the Art Explorer
My morning decision to not bring rain protection proved to be wrong once again and I found myself purchasing yet another five-euro umbrella, which I shall add to my collection. Dusk began to fall and I jumped in a water taxi to the Palazzo Pisani Moretta, for an evening hosted by White Cube, Pace, Fortes D’Aloia & Gabriel, and Galerie Max Hetzler—celebrating artist Beatriz Milhazes. I admired the candle-lit chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, a picturesque hors d'oeuvre table that recalled a still-life painting and the chiming of a harp reverberating through the 15th-century Gothic palace. I was thrilled to see artist Vanessa Garwood, who I speak to often but haven’t seen in the flesh in many months. As I headed towards the door, White Cube founder Jay Jopling and I ran into each other and exchanged a few words before I had to run to my next event.
There was much to admire at the 15th-century Palazzo Pisani Moretta
A helpful doorman called me a water taxi and I headed down the canal to the dinner at Palazzo Bollani, honouring the Saatchi Yates artist Tesfaye Urgessa who is featured in the Ethiopia pavilion. It felt hilarious and decadent to have a boat all to myself, though I was cutting it very close for time so it was well worth the €60.
A peek at the menu for the Ethiopia Pavilion dinner at Palazzo Bollani
Arriving at the palazzo, where the pavilion is housed, the first person my eyes met with was Arthur Yates, who waved at me. I was happy to be seated across from another fellow Saatchi Yates regular, musician and composer Robin Katz. I was also next to the curator and collector Tiffany Zabludowicz who told me what she’s been up to in New York. After dinner, I took a final stroll of Urgessa’s impressive presentation and saw my friend Alessandro Possati of Zuecca Projects, who has curated the Estranged from Nature: Ioan Sbârciu alongside Maria Rus Bojan at Squero Castello at Squero Castello, and is involved in other projects across the city.
The dinner was held in celebration of Tesfaye Urgessa, the artist representing Ethiopia at the country’s first-ever Venice Biennale pavilion
I still had my final stop of the night, the Burberry in Venice event at Harry’s Bar. Tuxedoed waiters circulated trays of bellinis and champagne, while partygoers relaxed at the classic wooden dining tables. As I find my way to the back of the room I run into a Telegraph editor and say hi to Robert Diament, who hosted Burberry’s talk with artist John Akomfrah earlier in the evening. While it appeared that the night was only beginning for many, I slipped out the side door and back to my hotel. Another day in Venice under my belt!